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ever dumbening
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"I've nearly died twice at OB over the past 9 years, and am thankful for the near-death experiences. These were days where you paddle out on a 7'2" and realize you misjudged the size by a longshot, because no one else had gone out yet (the view from the dunes/lot is VERY deceptive). These are the days when you paddle out for 20-30 mins into a heaving, angry ocean, and you are a gnat in the bucket. When the swell stair-steps from 10' to 12' to 15' in a matter of minutes, and you are suddenly undergunned and a quarter-mile+ offshore in the deep, gray, shark-infested waters, alone. It enabled a quantum change in my life that 99.999% of the world could never possibly understand. OB is ahumbling, scary, fantastic place to test your mettle. These are the days when pure intent and willpower have to be conjured, because all of your skills -- though important -- become muted to the other preparations in your mind/body. It a visceral, do-or-die feeling, and OB canhit you like a stadium full of wet cement over your eggshell noggin. When you are outmatched at OB, you find out what you are made of, inside and out. The place will truly ring your bell at 6', and it just gets wilder from there on up. The blood just left my extremities as I wrote this, no lie....that's the magic and the memory of OB in me."
guess i'll just keep swimming in the poo/crowds at lindy instead.
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060409
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