i_blame_jaws
swimmer if it wasn't for that film i am pretty sure i would be a pro surfer by now, my imaginaation just trips out when i'm in that vast Ocean. I can swim well but not when i think a huge shark is lurking beneath.
A very small percentage of surfers actually die or get attacked by sharks but i always think it is my turn, my eagerness to become a decent surfer does not over run the image of being eaten by a shark, i blame Jaws.
kill or thrill ?
070813
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blather local surfing sucks. don't try it. 070813
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? why is trainspotting better? 070814
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ego hum The first time
I tried to surf, I was 14.
We; me and my friend, rented a board for a few hours, he took it out 1st, wipes out spectacularililly
board hits his head
comes in bleeding profus4ely from his
head
That pretty much, pretty much killed my interest
210120
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ego hum on the other hand
My friend has formed a love of surfing
which I envy
210120
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