surfing
andru235
it
took
me
three
days
before
i
was
able
to
get
up
and
"
ride
a
wave
",
but
i
was
so
proud
when
i
finally
did
half
an
hour
later
,
i
was
swept
out
to
sea
by
a
riptide
and
thought
i
was
going
to
die
i
did
not
go
and
rent
a
surfboard
the
next
day
051122
what's it to you?
who
go
blather
from