lhasa ever dumbening Sulfur burps from giardia. Watching a dog leap from a temple wall, breaking its back. Otherworldly droning chanting man in the jokhong temple. The daily juniper/sage smokepot carried in front of our door each morning to temporarily scare the dozens of flies flying geometrically. Buying neon-blue nylon shoelaces along the barkhor for my brown timberlands; they're on my feet tonight, four years later; people always laugh at them, but I know better. From drepung, watching a storm well in the valley, then being invited into the bowels to escape the rain--warm, dark, fragrant. There is no other city with richer smiles, smiles that chew on your core. A dead bloated yak in the yarlong. Returning to beijing, sad, broken. 011115 what's it to you? who go blather from